Military Jacket

Reference garment: Silent Hill 2 remake jacket which is probably based on M65 US military jacket. I take design elements from both. The Silent Hill jacket looks more fitting while the M65 jacket is roomier.

Bodice: Kawashima basic jacket sloper (p176) with some modification by me. Take note that front shoulder line is shorter by 1 cm.

Sleeve: Kawashima two-piece sleeve (p144). This is a more tailored two-piece technique, as opposed to more casual back-seamed sleeve. I make the sleeve cap height a lot shorter. This makes the sleeve wider so I can omit sleeve cap ease.

My particular interest is how to properly draft the back shoulder gusset / flange / action pleat / bi-swing. Special thanks to patron TC for helping me with the research.

Another caveat is that the collar is actually a standing straight collar that is folded to look like a convertible collar. Because of the overlapping front extension, the collar cannot be folded when the front is fully fastened, unless you draft the collar to skip the front extension.

I also don't like how the zipper is attached, so I use a more standard construction using facing. The following diagram may help (ESMOD Fashion Details V3 p20). Omit the lining.

Subscribers can view the 4 hours back-and-forth trial and error detailing footage here.

Something new this time is I actually render the turntable animation using Blender. Maybe I'll record how I do it later. But it is nothing you can't learn from YouTube.

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Download link for basic block. The folder are:

• For Style3D: "Baron - Kawashima - Basic Jacket Sloper 250206"

• For Clo: "Thomas - Kawashima - Basic Jacket Sloper 250206"

The basic block has one-piece sleeve. It has quite high sleeve cap. The sleeve cap ease is properly notched.

Download links for project files. My subscribers can download for free for a limited time.

Style3D files.

Clo3D files.

Just a head up the toile will be even longer to finish than usual. I want to learn sewing the pockets this time.

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###### Footnotes ######

#1. Negative ease, which is unusual. Typo maybe? But this work well with this particular avatar. I found that for Clo avatar it is better to add 0 to 1 cm ease.

#2. Plus 2 cm is my personal adjustment for this avatar.

#3. This seam does not exist in the actual garment. The main purpose of this seam is so that I can preserve the symmetric pattern for easier workflow. If you merge it now the ‘linked editing’ for right and left front patterns will be eliminated, so you have to do both sides separately when you apply pockets, topstitches, puckering, etc. I only merge it later after I’m done with the details.