SamuKata
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Prototype 5 - Cabling & Tensioner

Hey makers! I got a question about cabling for this on how it returns to its open position (hammers back at each end). You can view the cable asset in the .blend file attached if you open it and look under the Hardware Collection (non printables) and click the Eye icon to unhide the cable. You'll see my intended routing of the cable! The squiggly line denotes the tensioner which I was mounting to the screw to the right of the front bearing!

The cable routes through the tube around the large bearing to the front slider (to pull it back) then around the front bearing to the rear slider (to pull it forward), then back around the large bearing to the tensioner!

Tip: If new to Blender -- you can hide the bearing covers to show the sable via (H or the Eye icon in the collection there on the right)

Prototype 5 - Cabling & Tensioner

Comments

So the unlocker arms, I designed to print, not from the orientation in the mechanism (nozzles of 3D printers are wider than this cause it’s so small) but rather to print rotated 90degrees such that you can print from bottom up. I would probably not suggest CNC services unless you have your own because these mechanisms need really good precision and you’ll certainly have to tweak your prints a few times until you get the right tolerance

Crash Makerspace

Hey, I do have a problem - all the nylon printers say they struggle to provide printing services with accuracy below 0.6mm. Do you have any suggestions for me to find a merchant that carries what type of printer, or to change the material? I also asked the cnc and they said that this is also almost impossible to achieve. Is it possible to increase the thickness of that unlocker arm?

Sean

Ok! For the tensioner mechanism there are a couple ways about it. You could attach a spring or elastic to the cover to each "post" sticking up off the hammers to pull them back. Or you could do a more complex cabling mechanism like I was toying with here. The complex cabling is actually being a huge pain cause the cables keep wanting to slip off or under the bearings. If it's your first time with Blender I can post a video on here too of how to edit files if that's helpful if you're looking at Mods.

Crash Makerspace

Ah good to know! So, as long as the cable is set on the holes so it moves with the string it’ll be good to go?

TheHobbit

Thanks for the reply! Guess what I meant more was how do you set up the “tensioner” so that after the blade gets deployed/stowed the slides go all the way back to grip the blade again.

TheHobbit

The locks I'm assuming? Those & the blade under them have grooves for 3mm neodymium round magnets! x8 total as its one per lock and 4 in the blade! I uses kevlar cord for the cable!

Crash Makerspace

I actually just used a little tub screw to impinge the cable so it wouldn't move! But since the Blender source file is attached you could change the hole there however you'd like!

Crash Makerspace

Also sorry for all the questions. How to the triggers reset. Am I missing a spring or a rubber band somewhere? Finally what do you use for your "wire"?

TheHobbit

Hi, I am a bit confused on how the cable secures to the sliders. The blender file just looks like it goes through it but do I need to knot around the slider so it actually pulls it?

TheHobbit

The blender file only shows one because they are duplicates; you physically rotate one part 180 degrees on the other end. I model identical parts with 1 part since no need to had duplicate files that may be out of sync with its source

Crash Makerspace

I'm stuck on figuring out how to string up both sliders the blender file only shows one and so the wire is in relation to just one

Dan 3D

There are definitely other ways to cable it up! I went with this design as it was pretty cool looking :p But you can totally change it up, there are certainly other ways about making it lower friction. Another nice thing bout having the source Blender file is you can totally go in and hack away and make some great improvements.

Crash Makerspace

Instead of it routing around the large bearing twice, have you tried routing it in a W shape and moving the positions of the 3 bearings?

Gerthardus Marais


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